Soho

Beyond the Basque Border In the heart of Soho lies Alta, a culinary sanctuary that shatters the predictable tropes of Spanish dining. This is not a place for the ubiquitous patatas bravas; instead, Chef Rob brings a decade of elite experience from Elkano to the grill. The atmosphere pulses with the energy of an open kitchen, where smoke and flame serve as the primary seasoning agents for ingredients sourced with obsessive care. The Alchemy of Texture The standout innovation is a dish that masquerades as pasta but reveals itself as meticulously stripped squid membrane. When kissed by heat, the squid tightens into elegant, tagliatelline-like strands. The mouthfeel is transcendent—delicate yet playful, offering a snap that traditional grain-based pasta simply cannot replicate. It represents the height of culinary deception, where technique transforms a simple mollusk into a sophisticated textural event. Charred Meats and Cured Wonders The Cecina at Alta demands reverence. This dry-aged sirloin undergoes a transformation that results in a profile both intense and buttery, amplified by a subtle coffee oil that grounds the funkier notes of the beef. Equally impressive is the venison, smoked over juniper branches. The kitchen pairs the gamey richness with a treacle and juniper sauce, creating a dark, syrupy depth that clings to the palate and highlights the primitive, smoky soul of open-fire cooking. A Final Verdict on the Palate While the savory program is nearly flawless, the beverage program offers a rare stumble with the Cherry Kalimotxo. This blend of red wine and cola, while traditional in Spanish street culture, feels discordant against the refinement of the food, leaning perhaps too close to medicinal sweetness. However, one cannot leave without experiencing the cheddar and spiced honey donuts—a fleeting, decadent bite that perfectly encapsulates Alta's ability to balance rustic tradition with high-concept indulgence. For those seeking the pinnacle of London's Spanish dining scene, Alta is an essential pilgrimage.