Ben Marks

The Midas Touch at Perilla In the ever-shifting landscape of the London food scene, finding a kitchen that consistently delivers brilliance is a rarity. For Hasan Semay, better known as Big Has, that pinnacle of excellence is Perilla in Newington Green. Under the direction of chef Ben Marks, the establishment has garnered a reputation for transforming humble seasonal ingredients into works of art. The cuisine here is a masterful exercise in balance, blending modern European techniques with a rustic, soulful heart that avoids the stiff pretension of typical fine dining. Secret Sips Beneath the Barber Shop Discovery is half the thrill of the hunt for a sophisticated cocktail. As Above, So Below operates as a clandestine speakeasy tucked away beneath a barber shop. This isn't just about the atmosphere; the technical precision behind the bar is staggering. Their signature clear mango lassi cocktail employs fat-washing techniques to achieve a silky mouthfeel without the opacity of traditional yogurt based drinks. It represents a refined evolution of the 'speak-easy' trend, focusing on clarity of flavor and innovation rather than just a hidden door. Rejecting the Viral Queue Culture A dish is only as good as the experience of obtaining it, and Hasan Semay takes a firm stand against the 'viral pendulum' swinging through London. He identifies Padella as an overrated experience, not because of the pasta itself, but because of the dehumanizing ritual of the sidewalk queue. When a restaurant becomes a victim of its own social media fame, it often ceases to serve the local community and instead serves the tourist frenzy. True luxury is found in the 'outrageous vibe' of Tehrani, a Persian kebab sanctuary where the quality of the bread and meat speaks louder than a TikTok trend. The North London Pizza Giant While artisanal Neapolitan styles often dominate culinary discourse, Yard Sale Pizza earns its accolades through sheer scale and reliability. Hasan Semay champions their massive pies, noting that a large order is substantial enough to occupy the entire trunk of a car. It is a testament to the fact that excellence doesn't always require a white tablecloth; sometimes, it just requires a perfectly blistered crust and enough generosity to feed a neighborhood.