Fallow

The Quest for New York’s Culinary Soul Recreating iconic restaurant dishes at home is the ultimate test of a chef's technical adaptability. When London chefs Jack Croft and Will Murray of Fallow traveled to New York City, they did not just eat; they dissected. From the legendary pastrami at Katz's Delicatessen to the blistered sourdough crusts at Scarr's Pizza, the duo sought to understand the science, history, and raw technique that make these dishes global standards. Returning to their London kitchen, they faced a daunting reality. Some culinary landmarks rely on specialized, industrial equipment or decades of muscle memory. However, by applying fundamental culinary principles—precise temperature control, scratch-made doughs, and respectful ingredient sourcing—they proved that many of these legendary flavors can indeed be coaxed to life anywhere in the world. Smoked Brisket Secrets From London’s Meat Master To replicate the legendary pastrami from Katz's Delicatessen, which moves over 2,200 kilograms of boneless meat weekly, the chefs knew they needed elite expertise. They partnered with smoked meat specialist Reuben Waller of Reuben's Reuben to break down the highly technical curing and smoking process. The Curing Phase Everything starts with a heavily marbled brisket flat. A solid fat cap is necessary to keep the meat self-basting during the long cook. The brisket undergoes a dry brine, rubbed thoroughly with curing salts, vacuum-sealed or wrapped tightly in cling film, and left to cure in the refrigerator for 10 to 14 days. This draws out moisture, creating a super-concentrated liquid brine that cures the interior of the muscle. The Spice Rub and Smoke Once cured, the brisket is coated in a traditional rub dominated by coarse black pepper and cracked coriander seeds. For added color and depth, Waller adds celery seeds and smoked paprika, alongside garlic and onion powder. The meat is smoked over reclaimed whiskey barrels for roughly 16 hours. This slow, low-temperature cook builds a dark, caramelized crust known as the "bark." Preserving the Collagen The real test of pastrami is its texture. Slicing against the grain is mandatory. Proper execution leaves the internal collagen intact but perfectly gelatinized and slippery. Overcooking melts this completely, leaving you with dry, crumbly meat that falls apart on the slicer rather than gliding under the knife. Structuring the Ultimate Katz-Style Pastrami Sandwich Tools and Materials Needed * Sharp slicing knife (preferably a long, granton-edge slicer) * Oven set to low heat * Baking sheet with resting juices * Polish rye bread * Sauerkraut * Swiss or American sliced cheese * For the Russian dressing: Mayonnaise, ketchup, horseradish, Worcestershire sauce, diced gherkins (plus juice), shallots, Tabasco, and smoked paprika. Step-by-Step Assembly 1. **Whisk the Dressing:** Combine mayonnaise and ketchup as your base. Whisk in a kick of fresh horseradish, a splash of Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, smoked paprika, and finely minced gherkins with a splash of their pickling juice. 2. **Slice the Warm Meat:** Slice the hot, smoked brisket against the grain into thick, even ribbons. 3. **Melt the Cheese:** Pile the sliced pastrami onto a baking sheet, splash with a few spoonfuls of meat resting juices, drape with cheese, and slide into the oven just until the cheese melts and binds the pile. 4. **Assemble the Sandwich:** Lay down two slices of fresh Polish rye. Spread a generous layer of Russian dressing on both sides. Transfer the warm meat and melted cheese mountain directly onto the bread, top with drained sauerkraut, and close the sandwich. Crafting the Perfect Everything Bagel and Salmon Garnish A New York bagel is defined by its distinct structural contrast—a blistered, crunchy exterior yielding to a tight, chewy crumb. Achieving this requires traditional dough fermenting and boiling techniques. Sourdough and Malt Poaching The foundation is a 24-hour slow-proved sourdough bagel dough. After shaping the rings, they must be poached in a rolling bath of water mixed with barley malt extract. This starch gelatinization on the surface is what locks in the moisture and creates the signature glossy, crisp shell once baked. Assembling the Russ & Daughters Standard To replicate the iconic bagel from Russ & Daughters, precision slicing is key. Split and toast your freshly baked sourdough everything bagel. Spread an exceptionally generous, edge-to-edge layer of cream cheese. Top with wafer-thin slices of red onion that have been soaked in ice water to strip away their harsh, sulfurous bite. Finish with capers, fresh dill, chives, a squeeze of lemon juice, and folds of premium smoked salmon. The Anatomy of 4 Charles' Decadent Wagyu Burger At 4 Charles Prime Rib, the burger is treated like fine dining. Recreating this at home requires a focus on fat ratios and extreme pan heat. Processing the Wagyu To mimic the luxurious texture, use high-quality Wagyu beef trim mixed with a dedicated fat cap to ensure an extremely high fat content. Mince the meat coarsely and shape lightly into neat, uniform balls using a burger press. Do not overwork the meat; you want a crumbly, tender texture that melts in the mouth, not a tight, rubbery puck. The Sear and Assembly Heat a heavy stainless steel pan to 400°F (204°C). Season the patties aggressively with salt and pepper right before they hit the steel. Press slightly to maximize contact, developing a deep, dark caramelized crust within minutes. Flip, apply American cheese, and let it melt. Stack double patties over sweet, slow-caramelized onions finished with a splash of Worcestershire sauce. Wedge this between toasted brioche buns alongside thick-cut slab bacon roasted at 350°F (177°C) and a perfectly fried egg topped with chives. Troubleshooting the Pitfalls of Sourdough Pizza Crusts When the Fallow team attempted to recreate the blanco slice from Scarr's Pizza, they hit a wall. Their pie emerged looking more like a rustic flatbread than a classic New York slice. This highlights the common issues home cooks face with high-hydration sourdoughs. Flour Sifting and Gluten Strength Scarr's utilizes a unique flour blend featuring freshly milled wholemeal grains. To get the flavor of whole grains without the sharp bran flakes popping your gluten bubbles, you must finely sift the wholemeal flour before mixing it with very strong white bread flour. This preserves the elasticity of your 24-hour sourdough dough. The Oven Temperature Trap American slice shops utilize deck ovens that bake around 600°F (315°C) to 650°F (343°C), allowing the base to form a rigid, crispy crust over several minutes. Neapolitan dome ovens run much hotter, around 850°F (454°C). If you launch a high-gluten New York dough into an environment that is too hot, the top cooks instantly while the bottom remains soft, resulting in a floppy, bready slice. If your dough sticks to the peel on launch, it will warp and lose its circular shape instantly. Use a light dusting of semolina on the peel to ensure a smooth slide. Respecting the Process on the Plate True culinary mastery cannot be rushed or easily bypassed. While shortcuts like commercial pancake mixes can deliver decent results for a quick hangover meal, reproducing the world's most celebrated dishes requires strict adherence to technique. Whether you are boiling bagels, curing brisket for two weeks, or hand-pressing corn tortillas for pork tacos, respecting the physical chemistry of your ingredients is what elevates simple street food into a memorable gastronomic event.