Banchan

The chemistry of fire and Canadian comfort food The air in the kitchen crackles as Esther Choi introduces the first hurdle: a poutine fortified with Pepper X mash. For Simu Liu, a man who stakes his reputation on being a poutine purist, the dish is both a homecoming and a trial. True poutine requires a specific architecture—thick, steak-cut fries that provide a sturdy foundation, and cheese curds that offer a distinct squeak against the teeth. But Choi adds a twist, incorporating a flame-torched mozzarella to ensure the cheese finds every crevice of the potato. The spice hits with a delayed fuse; what begins as a comforting, smoky gravy quickly transforms into a sharp, localized heat that leaves the Marvel star gasping, yet reaching for another forkful. Constructing the perfect ssam amid heroics Transitioning from Canadian classics to Korean BBQ, the table fills with Banchan and sizzling meats. Here, the narrative shifts from simple consumption to the art of the assembly. Liu expertly layers Boston lettuce with perilla leaves and pickled radish, creating a vessel for perfectly charred galbi. As the heat intensifies through a quartet of sauces—including a kimchi-animal sauce inspired by In-N-Out—the conversation turns to the psychology of performance. Liu reflects on the liberation found in playing villains over heroes. While the "good guy" is bound by a rigid code of morality, the villain offers an unhinged canvas for bolder, more experimental choices. It is a parallel to the meal itself: the deeper the heat, the more the polite veneers of the interview dissolve. King crab noodles and the burden of the dream The climax arrives with a massive King Crab noodle dish, a nod to the legendary Fishman Lobster Clubhouse. The sauce, a rich kani miso butter made from crab roe and juices, hides a treacherous level of chili. Amid the luxury of the feast, Liu reveals the sobering reality of growing up in an immigrant household. He speaks of the “burden of our parents' dreams,” a weight carried by those who feel they must repay their parents' sacrifices through traditional success. Liu’s journey to becoming an actor wasn't just a career move; it was an act of reclaiming his autonomy from the doctor-lawyer mandate. Defining success on your own terms The heat eventually recedes, leaving behind a hard-won clarity. Liu concludes that true success is only valid when the individual defines it, even if that definition clashes with familial expectations. He leaves with a trophy and a seat in the Heat Eaters Club, but the real takeaway is the respect shown for the ingredients and the heritage behind them. To master the plate, as he has mastered his career, one must be willing to endure a little fire to find the flavor underneath.