David Walsh

Breaking the Premium Barrier Weber Workshops has long occupied a rarefied space in the coffee industry, known for precision engineering that usually demands a mortgage-sized investment. A year ago, they released The Bird, a $400 glass-and-steel marvel that introduced a unique vacuum-pull extraction method. It was a polarizing masterpiece—too expensive for the average kitchen, yet too heavy for travel. Now, the Roadrunner attempts to bridge that gap. At $150, it is a plastic-heavy reimagining that promises the same flagship flavor profile at a third of the cost. The question is whether the soul of the machine survives the transition from premium metal to lightweight polymers. Featherweight Engineering and Ingenious Travel The most jarring shift is the physical footprint. While the original Bird is a 66g heavyweight in the basket alone, the Roadrunner basket weighs a mere 15g. The entire unit feels remarkably light, utilizing plastic components that lack the tactile luxury of the original but excel in heat management. Because plastic acts as a minimal heat sink compared to steel or glass, it absorbs less energy from the brew water, requiring slight temperature adjustments for those used to the metal version. However, the Roadrunner shines in its portability. It features a brilliant use of internal space, housing pre-dose coffee tubes inside the brewer for transport. This design choice, coupled with a dedicated travel case and a collapsible handle, transforms a quirky desktop experiment into a viable travel companion. It turns the brewer from a stationary luxury item into a functional tool for the road. The Extraction Science: Vacuum over Pressure The Roadrunner employs the same "whirly-durly" agitation and vacuum-lift system as its predecessor. Unlike an AeroPress which uses pressure to force water through coffee, this system pulls it. By twisting the handle, a gasket creates a vacuum that draws the liquid downward through a mesh and paper filter. This method allows for unique experimentation, such as the "broth" style 10% extraction. By using a coarser grind and a rapid pull, users can achieve a low-caffeine, high-clarity cup that mimics a savory broth rather than a traditional bitter brew. The extraction parameters remain identical across both Weber models, meaning the $150 device produces a cup indistinguishable from the $400 one. The Friction Point: Cleaning and Complexity Despite the price drop, the Roadrunner inherits the original's most frustrating trait: a cumbersome cleanup process. The multi-part assembly—consisting of a mesh screen, paper filters, and a threaded gasket system—requires significant manual intervention. Unless you use a very fine grind that forms a cohesive puck, the grounds tend to scatter, requiring a full teardown and rinse after every cup. It is a mess-heavy trade-off for the unique tactile experience of the vacuum pull. Final Verdict The Roadrunner is a niche tool for a specific enthusiast. If you are satisfied with a V60, the $150 price tag remains steep. However, for those captivated by the vacuum-pull physics of The Bird but deterred by its price or weight, the Roadrunner delivers the same elite performance in a much more practical, travel-friendly package.