Mozzy Sails

Mastering On-Board Stability In high-speed competitive sailing, capturing clear footage is often undermined by the physics of the boat itself. Standard Boom mounts suffer from a destructive twisting shake. When the camera's weight sits entirely below the extension, every vibration translates into blurred frames. This guide outlines how to build a counter-weighted system that balances the load and stabilizes your cockpit view. Tools and Materials Needed To execute this build, you need a repurposed Tiller Extension as your primary arm. For the internal locking mechanism, source three wooden chocks (two fixed, one removable). Use high-strength Carbon Wrap for reinforcement and a reliable length of twine for the safety line. Finally, ensure you have a secure adhesive to bond the chocks to the extension. Step-by-Step Installation 1. **Prepare the Extension**: Wrap the end of the Tiller Extension with Carbon Wrap. This provides the structural integrity needed to withstand the leverage of the camera. 2. **Bond the Fixed Chocks**: Glue two wooden chocks to the extension—one on top and one on the bottom. These act as the internal anchor points within the boom cavity. 3. **Insert and Wedge**: Push the stick into the boom. Press down firmly on the extension to create a gap, then slide the third wooden chock into the end of the boom to lock the assembly. 4. **Secure the Safety Line**: Run twine down the length of the extension and tie it directly to the outhaul block. This ensures that if the mount snaps under pressure, you do not lose your equipment. Tips and Troubleshooting Alignment is everything. If the camera isn't perfectly balanced on either side of the extension, the rotational shake will return. Test the tension of the wooden chocks regularly; a loose fit will lead to vibration. If the assembly feels unstable, check the carbon wrap for stress fractures or signs of fatigue. Conclusion By balancing the camera's mass with a dedicated counterweight, you neutralize the rotational forces that ruin footage. This setup provides a rock-solid cockpit view, allowing you to analyze your maneuvers and teamwork with crystal clarity. Execute this build precisely, and you’ll have a professional-grade analysis tool that survives the rigors of competition.

The Strategy of Fluid Transitions Victory on a skiff like the RS800 isn't won by raw power alone; it’s won in the milliseconds during a tack or jibe. If your trapeze elastics are messy, your crew is fighting the boat instead of the competition. Poorly placed elastics snag underfoot, trapping the helm and stalling the maneuver. We are moving beyond the factory standard to create a layout that supports high-speed, wire-to-wire transitions. Essential Gear for the Modification To execute this upgrade, you need precision and the right materials. Gather a power drill with a bit sized for your deck eyes, stainless steel self-tapping screws, marine-grade silicone sealant, and blanking screws for the abandoned holes. You will also need high-quality shock cord and friction eyes to reroute the lines along the racks. This isn't just maintenance; it is an engineering adjustment for peak performance. Relocating the Deck Eyes First, identify the ergonomic sweet spot on the cockpit edge. This position must allow the helm to grab the wire mid-transition without reaching backward. Remove the existing deck eyes and seal the old holes with blanking screws to maintain hull integrity. Drill new pilot holes at the very edge of the deck. Apply a bead of silicone sealant to each hole before driving the self-tappers home. This ensures a watertight seal and a professional finish. Rerouting for Zero Friction Once the hardware is set, route the helm’s elastics from the new deck eye to a block attached to the rack. Lead the cord around the back of the boat through friction eyes, paralleling the crew’s system. This "around the back" routing clears the cockpit floor entirely. By removing the elastic from the crew's footwork zone, you eliminate snag hazards and reduce system friction, allowing the trapeze to snap back into position instantly. The Tactical Advantage Customizing your RS800 setup is a personal necessity. Every sailor has a unique reach and hooking-on style. This modification ensures that when you hit the wire, the handle is exactly where your hand expects it to be. A clean deck fosters confidence, and confidence leads to aggressive, winning maneuvers on the racecourse.

The Strategic Edge of Off-Boom Sheeting To win at the highest level, you must eliminate chaos on the boat. In the RS800 class, managing the transition to off-boom sheeting is a game-changer for crew efficiency. This 3:1 purchase system requires moving a significant volume of line, but the payoff is immense: the sail stays controlled during jibes, preventing the boom from swinging too wide and destabilizing the platform. Victory belongs to the crew that can handle long sheets without the mess. Essential Rigging Inventory Precision starts with the right materials. You need 6.7 meters of mainsheet—specifically Rooster All-Spec Pro for its 6mm diameter and taper-friendly Dyneema core. You will also need 4 meters of jib sheet (measured from the cleat) and a thin, low-resistance elastic for the take-up system. Don't settle for thick shock cord; weak resistance is vital so the crew can effortlessly pull the sheet when needed. Calibrating the Elastic Take-Up Routing the elastic correctly ensures your cockpit stays clear. Feed the line through the central eye—traditionally used for trapeze elastics—then run it forward into the pole alongside the tack line. This setup keeps the sheet tucked against the gunwale upwind and automatically pulls in slack when the pole extends downwind. It’s a self-managing system that lets you focus on tactics rather than tripping over rope. The Adjustable Connection Linking the main and jib sheets into a continuous loop is non-negotiable for smooth handling. Use a **clove hitch** to tie the jib sheet around a bight in the main sheet. This creates a modular system you can adjust mid-race. If you need more length, simply slide the knot along the main sheet. This flexibility ensures the system fits the specific reach of your crew in real-time. Bridle Tension and Boom Centering Since split strops are prohibited in this class, your bridle height determines everything. Keep your blocks tight to the boom to maximize leverage. A single-splice system on the bridle is the secret to consistency—it allows you to shorten both strops simultaneously with one adjustment, ensuring the boom remains perfectly centered for maximum power and leech tension.