Challenging the 58mm Standard For decades, the 58mm portafilter has reigned supreme as the industry standard, but this legacy dimension may be hindering the potential of modern light roasts. Traditional Italian espresso utilized 7g or 14g doses, which, when spread across a wide 58mm basket, create a paper-thin bed depth. While this works for dark, oily roasts where bitter notes are expected, it creates a volatile environment for light roasts. Without a thick coffee puck to act as a natural filter, water gushes through too quickly, forcing users to grind at near-Turkish fineness just to create resistance. This often leads to uneven extraction and aggressive channeling. The Physics of Bed Depth Switching to a smaller diameter, such as 49mm, fundamentally changes the extraction physics. A 15g dose in a 49mm basket provides the same bed depth as a massive 21.5g dose in a 58mm basket. This increased depth allows the coffee puck to function as its primary filter, trapping cell wall fragments and granular particulates that would otherwise muddy the cup. Most importantly, a deeper bed enables a coarser grind. Coarser grounds facilitate a more homogenous flow and provide a wider margin of error, turning a finicky "gusher" shot into a consistent, sweet, and aromatic experience. Innovation via the Gaggia Classic Pro Precision engineering from firms like S Works Design is now making these concepts accessible for home enthusiasts. Their conversion kit for the Gaggia Classic Pro replaces the standard group head components with a CNC-milled aluminum dispersion plate and a 49mm screen. By removing the center screw and downsizing the diameter, the kit ensures an even distribution of water over a deep, stable puck. This is not merely a gadget; it is a tactical response to the global coffee crisis and rising tariffs. Using smaller doses efficiently respects the work of producers by ensuring every gram of expensive, high-quality coffee reaches its full flavor potential without being wasted in endless dial-in attempts.
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European Coffee Trip (6 mentions) profiles the brand as a Swiss specialty coffee leader in "How To Run Exceptional Specialty Coffee Shops," while Lance Hedrick (1 mention) highlights its significant industry influence.
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The Awakening of a Palate Emi Fukahori did not begin her journey in a roastery; she started in tourism, selling the beauty of Switzerland to the world. Her culinary awakening arrived not through a complex pour-over, but via a simple flat white. This encounter with the inherent sweetness of milk and espresso sparked a curiosity that transformed into an obsession. The turning point occurred in 2014 when Nina, a barista champion, served her an Ethiopian coffee that tasted unmistakably of strawberries. This moment shattered Emi's perception of what coffee could be, leading her to co-found MAME in Zurich with Mathieu Theis, a space dedicated to celebrating coffee with the intensity of a championship stage. Discovery at Daterra Farm The road to the World Brewers Cup began in Brazil. While visiting Daterra, Mathieu discovered a variety that defied traditional Brazilian profiles: Laurina. Initially skeptical of the "farm effect"—where coffee tastes better at the source—Emi found herself increasingly captivated during cupping. The beans offered a rare complexity that shifted as the temperature dropped, a vital trait for competition where judges evaluate the brew hot, warm, and cold. The Engineering of a Masterpiece Translating a cupping experience to a ten-minute stage performance required technical precision. Emi sought the expertise of Tetsu Kasuya, the 2016 champion, to validate her choice. To manage the temperature sensitivity of the Laurina, she utilized the Gina smart brewer. This device allowed her to toggle between immersion and non-immersion techniques, maintaining the necessary heat to coax out the delicate acidity and body required for a world-class cup. Triumph in the Arena In Brazil, the coffee initially proved temperamental, tasting flat and dry during training. However, on the morning of the finals, the Laurina underwent a miraculous transformation, blossoming into a profile reminiscent of sangria and champagne. Performing before a local crowd that roared for a Brazilian coffee, Emi delivered a flawless service. Winning the gold was a shock, but for Emi, the true reward remained the process of learning. She champions the idea that competition is not about the title, but about the profound respect for the ingredient and the continuous refinement of one's craft.
Apr 14, 2019Exceptional Terroir and Time Travel in a Cup Visiting MAME in Zurich reveals why this establishment sits at the pinnacle of the specialty coffee movement. Founders Mathieu%20Theis and Emi%20Fukahori treat coffee not merely as a beverage, but as a living record of agricultural excellence. The most striking element of the experience is their presentation of a 2013 Kenyan crop from George%20Howell%20Coffee. By freezing green beans at peak freshness, they defy the traditional boundaries of seasonality. This technique yields a floral, vibrant cup that tastes remarkably six months old rather than four years. It is a masterclass in ingredient preservation and respect for the farmer's labor. The Architecture of Extraction The technical prowess of the cafe extends to their choice of equipment, specifically a competition-grade Nuova%20Simonelli machine. This isn't just a tool; it carries the narrative of competitive barista history. Mathieu%20Theis uses a machine he once faltered on during a championship, turning a moment of professional growth into the daily workhorse of his cafe. This transparency regarding the "love and hate" relationship with high-end machinery highlights the human element behind the perfect espresso. The resulting shots, especially when paired with beans from the Coffee%20Collective, showcase impeccable clarity and balance. Curating a Global Coffee Portfolio MAME functions as a curated gallery for the world's finest roasters. Unlike cafes bound by single-source contracts, they rotate offerings from Tim%20Wendelboe, April%20Coffee%20Roasters, and La%20Cabra. This fluidity allows the baristas to prioritize flavor above all else. The atmosphere manages to be both high-precision and warmly encouraging, making it a rare "wonderland" for enthusiasts. For anyone serious about the culinary art of coffee, this Zurich destination offers a definitive standard for technique, sourcing, and hospitality.
Feb 6, 2017