The Evolution of Espresso: Embracing Clarity and Questioning Tradition

A Historical Brew: From Steam to Spring Levers

To understand the current discourse, one must appreciate espresso's rich history. Early espresso machines, dating back to the late 1800s, relied on steam pressure. These behemoths required skilled operators to manually regulate the intense pressure. These machines pushed steam-pressurized water through a tightly packed coffee puck at approximately 1 to 1.5 bar.

The mid-20th century witnessed a revolution with the advent of the nine-bar spring lever machine. Figures like Achille Gaja and Antonio Kminise are pivotal in this evolution. Then, in 1961, the E61 pump-driven machine by FAMA emerged, transforming coffee service in cafes worldwide. This innovation facilitated the creation of the café crème and other larger espresso variations.

The Crema Conundrum: Marketing or Mistake?

It’s fascinating to consider that the café crème was initially a marketing strategy. The goal was to assure consumers that the crema, that 'scum' atop the espresso, was not a brewing defect but rather a desirable attribute.

For decades, espresso encompassed both the modern concentrated definition and the older, larger café crème. Even in the 1950s and 60s, it was common to pull what were essentially filter coffees from espresso machines, using a higher coffee-to-water ratio to achieve a lower TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) and higher extraction.

Turbo Shots and the Quest for Clarity

The rise of turbo shots, popularized by Christopher Henden and Michael Cameron around 2017, further challenged traditional norms. These short, rapid extractions favored coarser grounds and produced less crema, appealing particularly to home baristas. The use of bottom paper filters also contributed to a cleaner, more filter-like cup.

Now, the advent of "soup"—an espresso-like beverage devoid of crema and pressure—represents a stark departure. This reflects a desire to create a more palatable experience with lighter roasted coffees.

The Pursuit of Quality: Beyond Traditional Parameters

When the focus shifts to quality, as it inevitably does in any culinary pursuit, methods evolve. Brewing exceptional light roast coffee within traditional espresso parameters can be challenging. This has led some to experiment with larger shots like café crème, while others have embraced the allonge, prioritizing clarity through higher extraction yields. The inherent characteristics of lighter roasts—less crema and greater extraction difficulty—logically result in lower-bodied, higher-extracted shots.

Redefining Espresso: A Liquid Definition

There will always be purists who cling to the 1948 ideals, but it's important to recognize that crema is not the definitive marker of espresso. It began as a marketing tactic to make the new style of coffee more approachable. Dark roasting, often employed to mask defects in lower-quality beans, produces significant carbon dioxide, which in turn creates abundant crema.

The brewing process is not optimized for light roasts if constrained by rigid parameters like nine bar pressure and specific flow rates. But, liberating oneself from these constraints opens up a world of possibilities. Ultra-low contact espressos, allonges, turbo shots, and soup shots all adhere to the fundamental principle of pressurized water through a tamped puck, and can be considered espresso.

Though an official Italian espresso definition exists, it specifies Italian espresso, acknowledging the diversity inherent in the beverage. Espresso, therefore, is not a monolithic entity but rather a spectrum of brewing methods.

Innovation vs. Rigidity: A Path Forward

The movement towards filter coffee reflects a desire for clarity without sacrificing intensity. Espresso, with its inherent intensity, offers a unique avenue to achieve this balance. The key lies in controlling pressure and water temperature, manipulating flow rates, and embracing techniques that were previously unattainable.

Rather than altering espresso, these innovations expand its horizons, echoing the diverse interpretations that have existed throughout its history. Lighter roasted coffees no longer necessitate crema for body or texture, thanks to advancements in grinder technology.

Whether one prefers nine bar espresso, old-school mocha pot, lever-style, or ultra-low contact, the ultimate goal remains: to brew something delicious. Let us remain open-minded, sharing our discoveries and refraining from imposing our definitions on others. Let’s call it espresso, call it coffee, call it filter, so long as we appreciate the flavors in the cup.