Tom Kerridge crowns the classic pork pie king of British pastry

British culinary heritage thrives on the comfort of a perfectly baked pie. In an intensive evaluation of regional classics, two-Michelin-starred pub owner Tom Kerridge put eight iconic variations to the test. This review examines how these traditional dishes stack up when subjected to elite professional standards, focusing on texture, structural integrity, and flavor balance.

Masterclass in Hot Water Crust

The evaluation quickly turned into a battle of textures. While the rich, beer-braised steak and ale pie set an incredibly high benchmark with its deeply savory beef cheek and short rib filling, it was ultimately dethroned by the classic pork pie.

This cold delicacy showcases the pinnacle of British charcuterie technique. Built on a flawless hot water pastry crust, it features a seasoned mix of pork mince, ham hock, and pancetta, sealed with a rich, savory gelatin jelly. The contrast of the crisp, sturdy crust against the rich meat and cooling jelly represents pastry engineering at its finest.

High Concept Versus Pure Technique

Other contenders struggled under rigorous professional scrutiny. The stargazy pie—featuring whole sardines poking through a rough puff pastry lid—failed to impress, leaning too heavily on novelty rather than cohesive flavor. Similarly, the Wigan kebab, which sandwiches a meat pie inside a buttered roll, was dismissed as structurally redundant and lacking refinement.

Even Kerridge's own restaurant-grade pig's cheek, mustard, and prune pie lost out to the simpler classic. Its rich filling ultimately lacked the balanced, refreshing bite that the cold pork pie achieves when paired with sharp piccalilli.

The Final Verdict

For purists and chefs alike, the cold pork pie remains the gold standard of British baking. Its victory proves that complex, multi-layered restaurant plates cannot match the time-honored, technical perfection of a well-executed hot water crust.