Eight kitchen pans that actually matter, according to chef Will Murray

Most home cooks treat the non-stick pan as an all-purpose workhorse. Professional kitchens treat it as a specialist. Will Murray argues that the only time a non-stick surface belongs in a professional lineup is during breakfast service. Its slick coating is designed for delicate, low-temperature items like eggs, which slide effortlessly across the surface without catching. For anything requiring high-heat searing or sauce development, however, the non-stick pan is completely useless because it prevents the formation of a rich, caramelized fond on the bottom.

The Indestructible Workhorse of the Line

Stainless steel is the absolute backbone of the professional kitchen. Five-ply construction, which sandwiches highly conductive aluminum between ultra-durable layers of steel, provides exceptional heat response. This makes stainless steel perfect for delicate fish like salmon. Many cooks fear fish skin sticking, but the key is patience. When the skin renders and crisps, it releases naturally. Stainless steel excels at building the foundational caramelized bits that form the basis for pan sauces, offering lifetime durability that non-stick surfaces cannot match.

The Lightning-Fast Carbon Steel Searing Elite

If you want the ultimate sear on a steak, carbon steel is the undisputed king. It behaves like a hybrid of stainless steel and cast iron, heating up with incredible speed and offering rapid thermal responsiveness. Unlike heavy cast iron, it cools down quickly when you add butter for basting, preventing your garlic and herbs from scorching. Pre-seasoned Made In Cookware carbon steel pans build a natural non-stick patina with every use, allowing you to achieve a beautiful, dark crust while maintaining complete control over the pan temperature.

The Heavy-Duty Heat Retention Veteran

Cast iron remains the ultimate tool for slow, steady heat transfer. Because of its incredible thermal mass, a cast iron skillet takes longer to heat up but holds that energy remarkably well. This makes it perfect for rendering fat caps on duck breasts. You start in a cold pan, allowing the fat to melt out slowly as the temperature rises. The thick metal ensures even heat distribution across the entire cooking surface, eliminating hot spots and allowing you to cook multiple portions without dropping the pan's core temperature.

The Classical Art of Copper and Enamel

For delicate emulsion sauces like a beurre blanc, classical copper pans provide unmatched thermal connectivity. They boil liquids evenly from the bottom to the very rim of the pan, reacting instantly when pulled off the flame to prevent split sauces. Meanwhile, heavy Dutch ovens coated in enamel are the premier choice for low-and-slow braising. The heavy lid seals in moisture and maintains a steady environment that breaks down tough collagens into meltingly tender meat, outclassing electronic slow cookers in flavor depth.